Blooming holiday plants are wonderful for bringing color inside when it gets a little too gray outside. Like many houseplants, holiday plants like Poinsettias, Cyclamen, and Amaryllis can be a little finicky if exposed to big temperature changes. See below for instructions on how to keep your holiday favorites looking their best!
Poinsettia
The red, white and pink “flowers” are actually bracts, which surround the true flowers -- the small, yellowish-green nubs. Poinsettias will bloom for several months after Christmas with proper care. While blooming, give your Poinsettia plenty of sun, protection from drafts and sudden changes in temperature.
Temperature - 68 or above daytime; 50 - 65 nights.
Water - let soil dry somewhat, and then water thoroughly.
Light – bright sunny spot
Getting Poinsettias to bloom again after the first year is difficult. The United States Botanic Garden has instructions available.
Cyclamen
Cyclamen like cool bright areas with no drafts.
Temperature – 60 -65 daytime; 40 - 60 nights (40 - 50 is ideal).
Light – bright, sunny area; southern or western exposure is best.
Moisture – keep soil evenly moist.
To maintain after blooming, let foliage die back -- keep the pot in a cool spot and let the soil dry. Re-pot the tuber in midsummer in a small pot and place the pot in a warm spot to encourage good root growth. As the plants grow gradually return it to a cool area (55) to induce blooming. Fertilize every two weeks.
Narcissus
Narcissus are very fragrant and lovely Paperwhite and Soleid d’Or are in the group of indoor Narcissus which can be forced into bloom in a relatively short period of time. Set the bulbs in pebbles. Plant shallowly so that only the bases are achored. Keep the pebbles wet and do not fertilize. Set the bulbs in a cool, dark place until new growth is about four inches tall, then bring them out to bloom.
Temperature – 68 or lower during the day; 40 - 45 nights.
Water – keep pebbles moist, but do not let the bulbs stand in water. Discard after flowering is complete.
Light – bright, indirect light.
Amaryllis
The Amaryllis blooms in late winter. The bulb can be potted as early as October. When the flower spike appears, place in a well-lit, cool (60) location; keep moist and fertilize monthly with Peters fertilizer. After the danger of frost has passed, place the pot outside in a shaded spot; water and fertilize regularly. At the end of the summer, bring the plant back indoors and continue to grow until the foliage begins to yellow. At this time, withhold water to encourage die-back then remove dead foliage. Place the pot in a cool, dry room and do not water for about four months. At the end of this period, water thoroughly and begin the cycle again.
Temperature – 65 -70 daytime; 60 - 65 nights. Keep plants cooler when blooming.
Water – when the top layer of soil feels dry to the touch.
Light – bright; eastern or southern exposure is best.
Re-Pot – every two or three years; put in a pot big enough to allow a two inch ring of soil around the bulb.
Christmas Cactus
Christmas Cactus is an old, old favorite and a dependable bloomer year after year.
Temperature – in order to force the plant to bud, night temperatures must be about 55. After the buds are set, 70 during the day and 60 - 70 nights.
Water – keep evenly moist during the growing season. Keep on the dry side during the resting season.
Light – bright, indirect light.
Fertilize every two weeks during growing season; do not fertilize during resting period. Changing the location of the plant during the pre-blooming period, fluctuations in the temperature, low humidity, and drafts can cause bud drop.
Hibiscus
Hibiscus are brilliantly blooming tropical plants which love bright light and humidity.
Temperature – 70 or higher during the day; 60 - 65 nights.
Water – keep evenly moist.
Light – bright light with full sun.
Fertilize monthly
Gardenia
Gardenia are grown for their incredibly fragrant white flowers, the Gardenia is temperamental. Provide the proper conditions, and it will do beautifully.
Temperature – 68 -72 daytime; 60 - 65 nights.
Water – keep soil moist and well drained.
Light – full sun.
Bud drop results from any stress, especially low humidity. Gardenias will not set buds if a night temperature exceeds 65. Fertilize monthly.
Kalanchoe
Kalanchoe, are beautiful, bright succulents which are easy to care for.
Temperature – 68 -72 daytime; 50 - 60 nights.
Water – let soil dry between watering.
Light – bright light/full sun.
Fertilize every two weeks until plants come into flower.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Campbell & Ferrara
Outdoor Living
Garden Ponds & Waterfalls can be just as striking in the Fall & Winter months with snow and ice as they are the rest of the year.
Winter care consists mainly of preventing the water from freezing solid. Most novices and even some veterans shut down their pumps & waterfalls each winter. This is not correct. Not only does the waterfall become unsightly, but it also gives the pond a chance to freeze, causing Methane Gas to be trapped and cutting off oxygen circulation to the area.
Keep your pond & waterfall running all year. Your fish will be much happier with the constant renewal of fresh oxygen. Your pond will stay much cleaner and next year’s cleaning out process will minimized.
During the fall, your fish’s diet should consist of wheat germ only, because it is much easier and quicker for the fish to digest. Prepared packages of fall fish food is available at the Garden Center. When the temperature starts falling below 50oF, it is time to stop feeding your fish.
All Aquatic Plants can be pruned back. Perennials, Lilies, and Lotus should be submerged to their recommended depths; discard Hyacinths and Winter Lettuce. Aquatic Plant fertilization should be stopped until spring.
Clean all pump intakes and bio-filter as needed. Net your pond prior to the fall foliage dropping. Place a Pond De-Icier in the water around November. Most of the Pond De-Icers on the market have a thermal switch, which will only go on when temperatures reach freezing.
Follow these three steps and you will enjoy your pond & waterfall during the winter months: 1) Keep your pond running all winter. 2) Stop feeding your fish when the temperature is below 50o F. 3) make sure the pond does not totally freeze over by using a heater.
Fall Pond Supplies (located in the Garden Center’s Aquatic Center)
• Pond Netting to help with dropping fall foliage.
• Floating Heater to allow gas exchange and oxygen circulation.
• Bio Filters (if needed)
• Fall Beneficial Bacteriol
• Wheat Germ Fish Food
Outdoor Living
Garden Ponds & Waterfalls can be just as striking in the Fall & Winter months with snow and ice as they are the rest of the year.
Winter care consists mainly of preventing the water from freezing solid. Most novices and even some veterans shut down their pumps & waterfalls each winter. This is not correct. Not only does the waterfall become unsightly, but it also gives the pond a chance to freeze, causing Methane Gas to be trapped and cutting off oxygen circulation to the area.
Keep your pond & waterfall running all year. Your fish will be much happier with the constant renewal of fresh oxygen. Your pond will stay much cleaner and next year’s cleaning out process will minimized.
During the fall, your fish’s diet should consist of wheat germ only, because it is much easier and quicker for the fish to digest. Prepared packages of fall fish food is available at the Garden Center. When the temperature starts falling below 50oF, it is time to stop feeding your fish.
All Aquatic Plants can be pruned back. Perennials, Lilies, and Lotus should be submerged to their recommended depths; discard Hyacinths and Winter Lettuce. Aquatic Plant fertilization should be stopped until spring.
Clean all pump intakes and bio-filter as needed. Net your pond prior to the fall foliage dropping. Place a Pond De-Icier in the water around November. Most of the Pond De-Icers on the market have a thermal switch, which will only go on when temperatures reach freezing.
Follow these three steps and you will enjoy your pond & waterfall during the winter months: 1) Keep your pond running all winter. 2) Stop feeding your fish when the temperature is below 50o F. 3) make sure the pond does not totally freeze over by using a heater.
Fall Pond Supplies (located in the Garden Center’s Aquatic Center)
• Pond Netting to help with dropping fall foliage.
• Floating Heater to allow gas exchange and oxygen circulation.
• Bio Filters (if needed)
• Fall Beneficial Bacteriol
• Wheat Germ Fish Food
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Campbell & Ferrara
Outdoor Living
Take the guesswork out of watering!
Use a MOISTURE METER to determine moisture requirements for the plants(s) & a
RAIN WAND to gently and evenly dispense water.
SOAKER HOSES are a good solution for even and slow soaking water applications.
If you are going to be away from home, TIMERS are available to automatically turn on and off your water.
Products noted above are inexpensive tools to help your plant's health and are available at the garden center.
WATERING INSTRUCTIONS FOR PLANTS
The first four weeks after the installation of your plants are critical to their survival! You will need to make yourself available to water your new plants during this important time in their establishment. Use your moisture meter (see below) as your green thumb to take the guess work out of determining when and how much to water. You will need to water annuals, perennials, and groundcovers more often because their root balls are much smaller, approximately every two - three days. Water is best applied early in the day, but it is more important to water thoroughly and deeply rather than to worry about the time of day!
We highly recommend that you invest in a “Rain Wand” and a “Moisture Meter”. The instructions for their use are as follows:
Moisture Meter
• Insert the Moisture Meter prong into the “Root Zone” of the new plant.
• Check each plant in three locations in the “Root Zone”.
• Check every 3 or 4 days for the first four weeks until you understand your plant’s water needs.
• Water when the meter reads less than 3 on a scale of 1-4 or less than 6 on a scale of 1-10.
• Do not water if the meter reads over 3 on a scale of 1-4 or less than 6 on a scale of 1-10.
Rain Wand
• Water the “Root Zone” w/ “Rain Wand” one minute for each foot of the plant’s height, up to a maximum of
8 feet = 8 minutes.
• Water no more than 10 minutes for your largest plants.
• After watering, use your Moisture Meter to check the moisture level of the soil. The “Root Zone” should
read 3 to 4 on a scale of 1-4 or 6-7 on a scale of 1-10.
• If the water runs off the “Root Zone” area, you may stop watering and move to another plant then come
back and continue to water until the Moisture Meter reads 3 or above.
• You may also choose to lower the water pressure in the hose if the water is running off the soil or not being
absorbed.
• After watering, use your Moisture Meter. The “Root Zone” should read 3 to 4 on a scale of 1-4 or 6-7 on
a scale of 1-10.
Outdoor Living
Take the guesswork out of watering!
Use a MOISTURE METER to determine moisture requirements for the plants(s) & a
RAIN WAND to gently and evenly dispense water.
SOAKER HOSES are a good solution for even and slow soaking water applications.
If you are going to be away from home, TIMERS are available to automatically turn on and off your water.
Products noted above are inexpensive tools to help your plant's health and are available at the garden center.
WATERING INSTRUCTIONS FOR PLANTS
The first four weeks after the installation of your plants are critical to their survival! You will need to make yourself available to water your new plants during this important time in their establishment. Use your moisture meter (see below) as your green thumb to take the guess work out of determining when and how much to water. You will need to water annuals, perennials, and groundcovers more often because their root balls are much smaller, approximately every two - three days. Water is best applied early in the day, but it is more important to water thoroughly and deeply rather than to worry about the time of day!
We highly recommend that you invest in a “Rain Wand” and a “Moisture Meter”. The instructions for their use are as follows:
Moisture Meter
• Insert the Moisture Meter prong into the “Root Zone” of the new plant.
• Check each plant in three locations in the “Root Zone”.
• Check every 3 or 4 days for the first four weeks until you understand your plant’s water needs.
• Water when the meter reads less than 3 on a scale of 1-4 or less than 6 on a scale of 1-10.
• Do not water if the meter reads over 3 on a scale of 1-4 or less than 6 on a scale of 1-10.
Rain Wand
• Water the “Root Zone” w/ “Rain Wand” one minute for each foot of the plant’s height, up to a maximum of
8 feet = 8 minutes.
• Water no more than 10 minutes for your largest plants.
• After watering, use your Moisture Meter to check the moisture level of the soil. The “Root Zone” should
read 3 to 4 on a scale of 1-4 or 6-7 on a scale of 1-10.
• If the water runs off the “Root Zone” area, you may stop watering and move to another plant then come
back and continue to water until the Moisture Meter reads 3 or above.
• You may also choose to lower the water pressure in the hose if the water is running off the soil or not being
absorbed.
• After watering, use your Moisture Meter. The “Root Zone” should read 3 to 4 on a scale of 1-4 or 6-7 on
a scale of 1-10.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Campbell & Ferrara Outdoor Living®
ATTRACT BIRDS & BUTTERFLIES TO YOUR GARDEN
By installing and regularly filling a variety of birdfeeders in your yard; you’ll surely attract bluejays, cardinals, Carolina wrens and chickadees. By increasing the number of native species in your landscape, you’ll also draw such winged-wonders as northern flickers, brown thrashers, red-eyed vireos and towhees to your garden.
To help you plan a “bird friendly” landscape, a partial list of recommended plants and the birds they attract is listed below. Our plant experts at the Garden Center & our landscape designers in the landscape office are ready to assist you!
http://www.campbellferrara.com/
Evergreen Trees: Attracts:
Spruce (Picea) evening grosbeak, red-breasted nuthatch, crossbills
Arborvitae (Thuja) pine siskin, American robin, house finch
Deciduous Trees: Attracts:
Sweetgum (Liquidambar) red-winged blackbird, cardinal, mourning dove
Red Maple (Acer rubrum) evening grosbeak
Small Deciduous Trees: Attracts:
White Fringtree (Chionanthus) pileated woodpecker
Serviceberry (Amelanchier) downy woodpecker, red-eyed vireo, wood thrush
Shrubs: Attracts
Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) northern bobwhite, northern flicker
Rugosa Rose eastern bluejay and 20 other species
Weigela (Weigela florida) ruby-throated hummingbird
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) mockingbird, brown thrasher, black-capped chickadee
Honeysuckle hummingbirds
Viburnum all berry eating birds
Groundcovers: Attracts:
Cotoneaster (C. horizontalis) rufous-sided towhee, American robin, thrasher
Carpet Bugleweed (Ajuga) hummingbird
Perennials: Attracts:
Lilium Hummingbirds, butterflies
Coneflower Hummingbirds, butterflies
Daisies Hummingbirds, butterflies
Asters Hummingbirds, butterflies
Pentstemon Hummingbirds, butterflies
Lamb's Ear Hummingbirds, butterflies
ATTRACT BIRDS & BUTTERFLIES TO YOUR GARDEN
To help you plan a “bird friendly” landscape, a partial list of recommended plants and the birds they attract is listed below. Our plant experts at the Garden Center & our landscape designers in the landscape office are ready to assist you!
http://www.campbellferrara.com/
Evergreen Trees: Attracts:
Spruce (Picea) evening grosbeak, red-breasted nuthatch, crossbills
Arborvitae (Thuja) pine siskin, American robin, house finch
Deciduous Trees: Attracts:
Sweetgum (Liquidambar) red-winged blackbird, cardinal, mourning dove
Red Maple (Acer rubrum) evening grosbeak
Small Deciduous Trees: Attracts:
White Fringtree (Chionanthus) pileated woodpecker
Serviceberry (Amelanchier) downy woodpecker, red-eyed vireo, wood thrush
Shrubs: Attracts
Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) northern bobwhite, northern flicker
Rugosa Rose eastern bluejay and 20 other species
Weigela (Weigela florida) ruby-throated hummingbird
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) mockingbird, brown thrasher, black-capped chickadee
Honeysuckle hummingbirds
Viburnum all berry eating birds
Groundcovers: Attracts:
Cotoneaster (C. horizontalis) rufous-sided towhee, American robin, thrasher
Carpet Bugleweed (Ajuga) hummingbird
Perennials: Attracts:
Lilium Hummingbirds, butterflies
Coneflower Hummingbirds, butterflies
Daisies Hummingbirds, butterflies
Asters Hummingbirds, butterflies
Pentstemon Hummingbirds, butterflies
Lamb's Ear Hummingbirds, butterflies
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Campbell & Ferrara
Outdoor Living®
http://www.campbellferrara.com/
DESIGNING CONTAINER GARDENS & WINDOW BOXES
Selection, arrangement and location of your plants will determine the overall visual impact and success of your planting design. The following tips will help you to create a display that you will enjoy for months. Do not be afraid to experiment and above all - enjoy this gardening experience!
• The location of your displays determine your choice of plants. You must know the amount of sun exposure your selected display area receives per day. If you have less than four hours of sun you will need shade plants. Some plants prefer morning sun rather than scorching afternoon sun. Others will be happy to sunbather all day long!
• Annuals or perennials? Annuals have a longer flowering period than most perennials. You will get five or more months of color from annuals if you plant them as soon as the last frost is past. Perennials with proper care will come back next year. If you choose to plant perennials in pots, beware of frost damage.
• A good display requires lots of plants. Do not be afraid of over-filling your containers.
• Beware of plants that take over the display; it’s a delicate balance.
• Use a good potting soil in your containers; MIRACLE- GRO POTTING SOIL.
• When you first bring your plants home you may find that they are root bound. If so, gently pair away some of the roots so that the roots will no longer wrap around each other. They will then spread out and down, enabling quicker growth. For planting in a container, make a hole twice the size of the root ball in width, but the same size of the root ball in height. This enables the roots to spread out without hitting a wall of earth which hasn’t been turned.
• Keeping your containers looking good means deadheading! It is important to know where to snip off the flower head. If you don’t know where to snip, you may be leaving the seed head behind; the plant won’t flower from that point again and will “go to seed”. Deadheading also prevents ‘die back’. Die back occurs from the point of flowering and causes some plants to become woody and stop flowering. When you cut off the flower head, you need to go right back to the stalk or back to the first leaf of the stalk. If you need further advice, either myself or another of our plant experts will be happy to help you.
• Fertilizing your plants once a week with a liquid or leaf feed generates new growth and continuous flowering, right up until the first frost; MIRACLE-GRO PLANT FOOD.
• Water your plants as needed. For containers, try to judge the need by inserting your finger into the soil. If the first 2 inches of soil are wet, you don’t have to water. In hot weather you may have to water containers everyday. After a light shower, your plants may still require a good soaking. Use a water meter to accurately determine the moisture in the soil.
Our friendly plant experts would love to help you with your plant selections!
Outdoor Living®
http://www.campbellferrara.com/
DESIGNING CONTAINER GARDENS & WINDOW BOXES
Selection, arrangement and location of your plants will determine the overall visual impact and success of your planting design. The following tips will help you to create a display that you will enjoy for months. Do not be afraid to experiment and above all - enjoy this gardening experience!
• The location of your displays determine your choice of plants. You must know the amount of sun exposure your selected display area receives per day. If you have less than four hours of sun you will need shade plants. Some plants prefer morning sun rather than scorching afternoon sun. Others will be happy to sunbather all day long!
• Annuals or perennials? Annuals have a longer flowering period than most perennials. You will get five or more months of color from annuals if you plant them as soon as the last frost is past. Perennials with proper care will come back next year. If you choose to plant perennials in pots, beware of frost damage.
• A good display requires lots of plants. Do not be afraid of over-filling your containers.
• Beware of plants that take over the display; it’s a delicate balance.
• Use a good potting soil in your containers; MIRACLE- GRO POTTING SOIL.
• When you first bring your plants home you may find that they are root bound. If so, gently pair away some of the roots so that the roots will no longer wrap around each other. They will then spread out and down, enabling quicker growth. For planting in a container, make a hole twice the size of the root ball in width, but the same size of the root ball in height. This enables the roots to spread out without hitting a wall of earth which hasn’t been turned.
• Keeping your containers looking good means deadheading! It is important to know where to snip off the flower head. If you don’t know where to snip, you may be leaving the seed head behind; the plant won’t flower from that point again and will “go to seed”. Deadheading also prevents ‘die back’. Die back occurs from the point of flowering and causes some plants to become woody and stop flowering. When you cut off the flower head, you need to go right back to the stalk or back to the first leaf of the stalk. If you need further advice, either myself or another of our plant experts will be happy to help you.
• Fertilizing your plants once a week with a liquid or leaf feed generates new growth and continuous flowering, right up until the first frost; MIRACLE-GRO PLANT FOOD.
• Water your plants as needed. For containers, try to judge the need by inserting your finger into the soil. If the first 2 inches of soil are wet, you don’t have to water. In hot weather you may have to water containers everyday. After a light shower, your plants may still require a good soaking. Use a water meter to accurately determine the moisture in the soil.
Our friendly plant experts would love to help you with your plant selections!
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Campbell & Ferrara
Outdoor Living®
http://www.campbellferrara.com/
NEWS FLASH….Roses have arrived! Over 80 varieties in stock!
Radiant Perfume Hybrid Tea Rose: NOW IN STOCK!
Very Fragrant , lemony scent with long stems & bold yellow color
This is one of my favorites; smells delicious & makes great cut flower!
THE IRRESISTIBLE ROSE
Roses have something irresistible that attracts gardeners. Their variety, form, fragrance, flower and history add to their enchantment. Year after year they will provide enjoyment with a commitment of minimal care. There are many roses, which will flourish in our climate producing gorgeous blooms. We carry a large variety and selection of roses including: modern roses, miniatures, climbing, shrub, English roses and old garden roses.
“Modern” rose is a term use to refer to the hybrid tea rose, the floribundas and the grandifloras. Modern roses trace their heritage to old garden roses.
Hybrid Tea – These are the most popular and grow 5’-6’ in height. They have large beautiful flowers on long stems, which make them a wonderful cut flower. Available in almost every color, they flower in our area in two flushes of bloom. The first is in May to early June. They then
Bloom sporadically during the heat. The second flush occurs in September to early October.
Floribunda – A very hardy short rose which grows 2’-3’ in height. The small flowers are borne in clusters. They can bloom from late spring through fall.
Grandiflora – a class of tall-growing varieties, up to 6’ high, with flowers smaller than the hybrid teas but in clusters of 5-7.
Miniatures – These grow from 6” to 18” tall. They are less hardy than some of the other roses and require a little protection.
Climbers – There are four types of climbers and it is important to know which you have as each has different pruning times and requirements.
There are: ramblers; large-flowered climbers; climbing hybrid teas; and true climbers. All grow tall -6’-20’- and require support. Their flower type varies.
Shrub- This is the rose for gardeners who don’t want to fuss because these roses can survive with little care once established, they don’t need deadheading or pruning and are more resistant to disease, fungus and insect problems. Old foliage should be cut back in late winter and dead wood and debris should be removed regularly.
English- these roses have the qualities of both modern and old garden roses. They have the modern virtues of contained bushes and they will bloom more than once in a season. Their color, fragrance and form resemble that of the old garden rose.
Old Garden – These roses are also known as heritage or antique roses. Victorian gardeners lost interest in these roses with the introduction of the hybrid tea, but gardeners are beginning to become interested in these lovely beauties. Their fragrance surpasses that offered by the modern rose and they are more winter hardy. Add this to your garden if you like the look of a large flowering shrub.
Basic Rose Care:
• Roses require full direct sun – at least 6 hours, good air circulation and a site, which drains well. Roses like to be kept moist and should be watered at the base only. Avoid allowing water to accumulate on the leaves. This will help to prevent black spot fungus from developing.
• Roses are heavy feeders and should be fertilized with a fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or Rose-Tone as new growth appears and every 2-3 weeks thereafter. Ortho Rose Care combination pack will feed and protect roses for up to 6 weeks.
• Pruning is variety specific – usually late February to early March as the buds swell. You should check with our plant experts for the proper time. Fall pruning is not recommended. During the entire year you should always remove dead wood from the rose plant and remove all debris from around the base of the plant. This will help to prevent insect infestation.
• If you have a question or problem with your rose(s), it is best to cut a sample which reflects the problem, place it in a zip locked bag and bring it into the Garden Center. One of our plant experts will advise you on the problem and the proper course of action. Please be sure to zip the bag containing the sample is securely zipped to prevent possible contamination of our nursery stock.
Most Common Pests:
• Aphids, cankers, Japanese beetles, spider mites and whitefly.
Most Common Diseases:
Blackspot, powdery mildew and rust.
Polystichum setiferum ‘Divisilobum’ (Soft-Shield Fern)**
Ask our Garden Center plant experts to assist your with selections & products appropriate for your garden.
• Fertilize with ESPOMA Rose-Tone©
• Plant with ½ Leaf Gro and ½ existing soil.
• Mulch with pine bark or hardwood mulch.
• Check soil’s moisture with a Moisture Meter.
Outdoor Living®
http://www.campbellferrara.com/
NEWS FLASH….Roses have arrived! Over 80 varieties in stock!
Very Fragrant , lemony scent with long stems & bold yellow color
This is one of my favorites; smells delicious & makes great cut flower!
THE IRRESISTIBLE ROSE
Roses have something irresistible that attracts gardeners. Their variety, form, fragrance, flower and history add to their enchantment. Year after year they will provide enjoyment with a commitment of minimal care. There are many roses, which will flourish in our climate producing gorgeous blooms. We carry a large variety and selection of roses including: modern roses, miniatures, climbing, shrub, English roses and old garden roses.
“Modern” rose is a term use to refer to the hybrid tea rose, the floribundas and the grandifloras. Modern roses trace their heritage to old garden roses.
Hybrid Tea – These are the most popular and grow 5’-6’ in height. They have large beautiful flowers on long stems, which make them a wonderful cut flower. Available in almost every color, they flower in our area in two flushes of bloom. The first is in May to early June. They then
Bloom sporadically during the heat. The second flush occurs in September to early October.
Floribunda – A very hardy short rose which grows 2’-3’ in height. The small flowers are borne in clusters. They can bloom from late spring through fall.
Grandiflora – a class of tall-growing varieties, up to 6’ high, with flowers smaller than the hybrid teas but in clusters of 5-7.
Miniatures – These grow from 6” to 18” tall. They are less hardy than some of the other roses and require a little protection.
Climbers – There are four types of climbers and it is important to know which you have as each has different pruning times and requirements.
There are: ramblers; large-flowered climbers; climbing hybrid teas; and true climbers. All grow tall -6’-20’- and require support. Their flower type varies.
Shrub- This is the rose for gardeners who don’t want to fuss because these roses can survive with little care once established, they don’t need deadheading or pruning and are more resistant to disease, fungus and insect problems. Old foliage should be cut back in late winter and dead wood and debris should be removed regularly.
English- these roses have the qualities of both modern and old garden roses. They have the modern virtues of contained bushes and they will bloom more than once in a season. Their color, fragrance and form resemble that of the old garden rose.
Old Garden – These roses are also known as heritage or antique roses. Victorian gardeners lost interest in these roses with the introduction of the hybrid tea, but gardeners are beginning to become interested in these lovely beauties. Their fragrance surpasses that offered by the modern rose and they are more winter hardy. Add this to your garden if you like the look of a large flowering shrub.
Basic Rose Care:
• Roses require full direct sun – at least 6 hours, good air circulation and a site, which drains well. Roses like to be kept moist and should be watered at the base only. Avoid allowing water to accumulate on the leaves. This will help to prevent black spot fungus from developing.
• Roses are heavy feeders and should be fertilized with a fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or Rose-Tone as new growth appears and every 2-3 weeks thereafter. Ortho Rose Care combination pack will feed and protect roses for up to 6 weeks.
• Pruning is variety specific – usually late February to early March as the buds swell. You should check with our plant experts for the proper time. Fall pruning is not recommended. During the entire year you should always remove dead wood from the rose plant and remove all debris from around the base of the plant. This will help to prevent insect infestation.
• If you have a question or problem with your rose(s), it is best to cut a sample which reflects the problem, place it in a zip locked bag and bring it into the Garden Center. One of our plant experts will advise you on the problem and the proper course of action. Please be sure to zip the bag containing the sample is securely zipped to prevent possible contamination of our nursery stock.
Most Common Pests:
• Aphids, cankers, Japanese beetles, spider mites and whitefly.
Most Common Diseases:
Blackspot, powdery mildew and rust.
Polystichum setiferum ‘Divisilobum’ (Soft-Shield Fern)**
Ask our Garden Center plant experts to assist your with selections & products appropriate for your garden.
• Fertilize with ESPOMA Rose-Tone©
• Plant with ½ Leaf Gro and ½ existing soil.
• Mulch with pine bark or hardwood mulch.
• Check soil’s moisture with a Moisture Meter.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Wow! Look at this gorgeous blooming perennial, Dead Nettle, Lamium maculatum ‘Shell Pink’. Its leaves are beautifully variegated, and its flowers are long-blooming; blooms late spring through early-mid summer. It grows best in part sun to shade and reaches a height of 8-12inches. Use it to add a splash of color to a shade garden, a container garden, under trees and shrubs, as a ground cover or along walkways and the edge of a garden. It looks particularly good when combined with spring flowering bulbs.
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